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Written by:
Pierce J
Published:
June 30, 2026
Learn how to move a washer and dryer safely with this complete step-by-step guide covering prep, disconnection, loading, and reinstallation tips.
If you're trying to figure out how to move a washer and dryer, you're dealing with two of the most overlooked — and most logistically demanding — appliances in your home. Together, a typical washer and dryer can weigh anywhere from 300 to over 500 pounds combined. They're bulky, awkward to grip, and filled with components that can be permanently damaged if they're not properly prepared before transport. Water lines, drain hoses, and electrical or gas connections all need to be addressed before either appliance moves an inch — and skipping any of those steps can mean leaks, broken drums, or a destroyed machine before you've unpacked a single box.
The good news is that washer and dryer moves go smoothly when you work through the right sequence. This guide covers everything: how to disconnect and prepare both appliances, what equipment you need, how to protect the machines and your floors during the move, how to load and secure them in the truck, and how to get them properly reinstalled at your destination. Whether you're moving a stacked laundry unit in a small apartment or a side-by-side set in a dedicated laundry room, the principles here apply.
The single biggest mistake people make when moving a washer and dryer is treating disconnection as a quick five-minute task. It isn't. Each appliance has specific connections that need to be handled carefully — and the dryer in particular can involve a gas line, which is not something to rush or improvise.
The first thing to confirm is whether your dryer runs on electricity or gas. An electric dryer uses a 240-volt outlet and a standard power cord — the disconnection process is straightforward. A gas dryer connects to a natural gas or propane line, and disconnecting it requires turning off the gas supply at the shutoff valve and carefully detaching the flexible gas connector. If you've never worked with a gas line before, this is a reasonable step to hand off to a licensed professional or to ask your moving company about. The risk isn't high if you follow the correct steps, but the consequences of a mistake are serious enough to take it slowly and deliberately.
If your washer and dryer are stacked, they're connected with a stacking kit — a set of brackets that locks the dryer on top of the washer. You'll need to disassemble the stack before moving; attempting to move them as a stacked unit is extremely dangerous. Similarly, if your appliances sit on pedestals (the drawer-style bases sold for front-loaders), those pedestals should be detached and moved separately. Both the stacking kit hardware and any pedestal fasteners should be bagged and labeled so you can reassemble everything at your destination.
Washers require two steps before they're ready to move: draining residual water and disconnecting the hoses. Skipping either step will result in water damage — to your floors, your other belongings, or the truck.
Turn off the hot and cold water supply valves behind the washer. These are typically located on the wall behind the machine — turn them clockwise until they stop. Once the water is off, disconnect the inlet hoses from the back of the washer. Have a bucket and old towels ready: residual water in the hoses will spill when you detach them. Allow the hoses to drain fully into the bucket before capping or bagging them.
Even after disconnecting the hoses, there's typically water left in the pump and drum. Run a spin cycle if the machine is still connected to power — this will remove most of the remaining water. Alternatively, consult your washer's manual for the drain pump filter location; most front-load washers have a small access panel at the bottom front that lets you drain residual water manually.
Once the machine is drained, the drum needs to be secured for transport. Most washers come with shipping bolts — threaded rods that lock the drum in place and prevent it from swinging during transport. If you kept yours, now is the time to reinstall them. If you didn't, replacement shipping bolts are often available from the manufacturer. A drum that swings freely in transit can damage the suspension and bearings — this is one of the most common causes of washer damage during moves.
Remove the drain hose from the standpipe or laundry tub it drains into. Allow any remaining water in the hose to drain, then secure it to the back of the washer with tape or zip ties so it doesn't catch on anything during the move. Unplug the power cord and tape it to the back of the machine as well.
The dryer disconnection process differs depending on whether you have an electric or gas model, but both types share a few common steps.
The dryer vent hose connects the back of the dryer to an exterior vent in the wall. Loosen the clamps on each end and remove the hose. These hoses are often fragile aluminum foil or semi-rigid duct material — inspect yours for any tears or damage while it's disconnected. If the hose is damaged, replace it before reinstalling at your new home rather than reconnecting a compromised vent, which can be a fire hazard. Clean out any lint buildup inside the hose before packing it for transport.
For an electric dryer, simply unplug the 240-volt power cord from the outlet. Secure the cord to the back of the dryer with tape so it doesn't drag.
For a gas dryer, start by turning off the gas supply at the shutoff valve (typically located on the gas line behind or beside the dryer). Once the gas is off, carefully unscrew the flexible connector from the dryer's gas inlet. Do not reuse old flexible gas connectors — they should be replaced at the new location. Cap the gas line with a plug while the appliance is in transit. If you're not comfortable with any step of this process, stop and call a professional.
Moving heavy appliances without the right equipment is how floors get scratched, walls get dented, and backs get injured. Before your moving day, make sure you have the following on hand.
If you'd rather leave the heavy lifting to professionals, our labor-only assistance service is designed exactly for situations like this — our crew brings all the equipment and handles the heavy appliances so you don't have to.
Once both appliances are disconnected and prepared, the physical move can begin. This is where most damage happens — not from the truck ride, but from navigating tight spaces with heavy, awkward machines.
Before you move either appliance, walk the entire route from the laundry room to the truck and remove every obstacle. Move rugs, clear furniture from hallways, open doors fully and use door stoppers to hold them. If any doorway is particularly tight, measure the opening and your appliances to confirm they'll fit before you start. Most standard washers and dryers are 27 to 30 inches wide — standard doorways are 32 to 36 inches, so clearance is usually adequate, but laundry closets and older homes sometimes have narrower openings.
Position the appliance dolly against the front of the machine. Have one person tilt the machine slightly forward while the other slides the dolly plate underneath the base. Secure the strap around the machine before you begin moving — do not attempt to transport the machine on the dolly without the strap engaged. Keep the machine upright throughout the move. Washers and dryers should not be transported on their sides or backs — doing so can shift internal components and cause damage.
Stairs add significant risk to appliance moves. You need at least three people: one controlling the dolly from the lower side, one guiding from the upper side, and one spotting from behind. Go slowly and communicate every step. Never let an appliance roll freely on a staircase. If your move involves multiple flights of stairs, this is a situation where professional movers with appliance experience are worth every dollar — check out our guide on how to hire a moving company for what to look for when evaluating your options.
Both appliances should be loaded upright — never on their sides — and positioned against the truck wall. Use the truck's built-in tie-down rails to secure moving straps around both machines. Pad the sides with moving blankets and wedge other items alongside them to prevent shifting during transit. Do not stack heavy items on top of either appliance.
Reinstallation is the mirror image of disconnection — but a few extra steps will help ensure your appliances run correctly and safely from day one.
Before connecting any hoses or lines, position each appliance in its final location and check that it sits level. Most washers and dryers have adjustable feet — use a level and adjust the feet until the machine is stable in all four corners. An unlevel washer will vibrate excessively, walk across the floor, and wear out its drum bearings faster. An unlevel dryer can affect door seals and airflow.
If you reinstalled shipping bolts for transport, remove them before plugging in the washer. This is one of the most commonly forgotten steps — a washer run with shipping bolts still installed can damage itself severely within a single cycle.
For the washer, turn the water supply valves on slowly and watch the inlet hose connections for leaks. Run a short test cycle and check for leaks around the drain hose as well. For a gas dryer, after reconnecting a new flexible gas connector, apply soapy water to all connection points and watch for bubbles, which indicate a gas leak. If you see any bubbling, turn off the gas immediately and call a professional before attempting to run the dryer.
Once everything checks out, run a short test cycle on both appliances to confirm they're operating normally before considering the job done.
Yes — shipping bolts (also called transit bolts) are strongly recommended whenever you move a washing machine. They lock the drum in place so it can't swing on its suspension during transport. A drum that moves freely in the truck can damage the suspension rods, bearings, and internal components. Most washers come with shipping bolts when new; if you've lost yours, check your washer's model number and order replacements from the manufacturer before your move. Always remove the shipping bolts again before running the washer at your new home.
Generally, no. Washers and dryers should be transported upright whenever possible. Laying a washer on its side can allow residual water to reach electrical components and can stress the drum suspension. Laying a dryer on its side can shift the drum or damage heating elements. Some manufacturers permit brief tilting during transit — consult your appliance manual for model-specific guidance. If the machine absolutely must be tilted due to space constraints, tilt it as minimally as possible and keep it in that position for the shortest time possible.
Moving a gas dryer safely starts with turning off the gas supply at the shutoff valve before disconnecting any fittings. Once the gas is off, carefully detach the flexible gas connector from the dryer's inlet. Cap the gas line with an appropriate plug while the dryer is in transit, and do not reuse the old flexible connector at your new location — replace it. After reinstallation, apply soapy water to all gas connection points and check for bubbles before running the dryer. If you're uncomfortable with any part of the gas disconnection process, contact a licensed plumber or appliance technician.
Two people can manage a washer or dryer on flat ground with the right equipment — specifically an appliance dolly with a strap. However, three people are strongly recommended if stairs are involved. On stairs, you need one person at the bottom controlling the dolly, one at the top guiding, and a third spotting from behind. Attempting to move a 200-pound appliance down stairs with fewer than three people is a significant safety risk. If your laundry setup involves stairs, seriously consider hiring professionals or using a labor-only moving service.
Once your washer is reinstalled, leveled, and all connections are confirmed leak-free, you can generally run it right away — provided you've removed any shipping bolts you reinstalled for transport. There's no required waiting period for standard washers. The main exception is if the washer was exposed to very cold temperatures during the move in freezing weather; in that case, allow the machine to acclimate to room temperature for a few hours before running a cycle to avoid stress on rubber seals and hoses.
Whether it’s a full home move or just a few heavy items, Hustle and Muscle Moving is ready to help you sort it out.
